B A N G K 0 K    M E T R O P O L I S

Bangkok Metropolis lies on both banks of the Chao Phya, the main river of Thailand, 20 kms upstream from the Gulf of Thailand. King Rama 1, the founder of the present Chakri Dynasty built the present capital in Bangkok in 1782. The Royal Founder took great care to build palaces and temples of the new capital in the same style of Ayuthaya, the previous capital, which in turn had its origin from Sukhothai, the first Thai capital built in the 13th century. Both former capitals, now national historical parks, have been placed in the UN's list of world cultural heritages. The name Bangkok appeared on international navigation charts as far back as the 15th century as an outpost port of Ayuthaya, the former capital where western merchant ships made frequent calls. However, Bangkok has got an official name, so auspicious and long that it goes into the Guinness Book as the longest in the world for a city. In short, the official name is "Krung Thep" meaning "The City of Angels", the same name as Los Angeles, which incidentally has a sizable Thai community numbering over 300,000 ethnic Thais, the largest outside Thailand.

Getting Around

BUSES

The ordinary city buses are not air-conditioned and are usually crowded during peak hours but their frequency is good. There are two types of ordinary buses -- the blue and the red ones. Besides, there are smaller private buses. The blue buses and the smaller private buses charge Bht. 2.50 and the red buses charge Bht. 3.50 throughout the routes.

Though comfortable for most of the day, the air-conditioned buses are packed to full capacity by office-goers during the morning and evening rush hours. The fares range from Bht. 6 for a distance of up to 8 km. to a maximum of Bht. 16. Most maps of Bangkok indicate the numbers of air-conditioned buses and their respective routes.

Smaller than the blue air-conditioned buses, micro buses operate on some of the major routes in the city. The seats have enough leg space. For the convenience of the passengers, the buses carry a stock of Thai-language magazines. Video entertainment also is available on board.

TAXIS

With the recent introduction of metered taxis, it has become very convenient for visitors to hail them and go to any destination without any haggling over fares. The metered taxis have a sign "Taxi Meter" on their roofs. The minimum fare is Bht. 35 for a distance of no more than 2 km. The fare increases according to the distance covered. For example, for a journey of 5 km, the meter will show Bht. 49, for 10.99 km, the charge will be Bht. 71, for 18.99 km, the meter will show Bht. 99, and Bht. 125 for a distance of 26.39 km. These rates are based on a travel speed of over 6 km per hour. If the speed is slower, a surcharge of one baht per minute is added automatically. In case of travel by expressway, the toll is payable by the passenger.

There are still some old non-metered taxis plying the roads of Bangkok. Passengers are advised to negotiate the fare before getting into a non-metered taxi.

TUK-TUKS

These three-wheeled automobiles are best used for covering short distances. Less convenient than taxis, the tuk-tuks are considered a faster mode of transport. They are also cheaper than ordinary taxis but fares must be negotiated before boarding.

PRIVATE CARS & VANS

Bangkok has a number of private car rental agencies with fleet of modern cars and vans. Chauffeur-driven cars can be rented from the agencies. For self-driven cars, clients are required to fulfill some formalities. Avis Rent-a-Car and Hertz are two of the most popular car rental agencies.

MOTORCYCLE TAXIS

Pillion-riding on a motor-cycle taxi is cheap and surely the fastest mode of travel in the city. The motorcyclists filter through the queues of cars and buses to reach their destination faster than the other modes of transport. FERRY SERVICES It is fun to travel in a boat when crossing the Chao Phraya river, or reaching from one point to another along the same bank. They are relatively faster and cheaper, though fares depend on the distance and type of the boat.

FERRY SERVICES

It is fun to travel in a boat when crossing the Chao Phraya river, or reaching from one point to another along the same bank. They are relatively faster and cheaper, though fares depend on the distance and type of the boat.

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Cultural Attractions

THE SIAM SOCIETY

Founded in 1904 under Royal Patronage, the organization helps those interested in the artistic and cultural life of Thailand and neighboring countries. The Society maintains an excellent library (for members only); publishes an esteemed journal; and organizes monthly lectures, exhibitions, and study trips. It has a natural history section too. An ethnological museum providing traditional Thai artifacts and carvings is housed in the Kamthieng House on the grounds of the Society. It is open Tue to Sat 9 am - 12 noon and 1-5 pm. The address is 131 Sukhumvit 21 (Soi Asoke), Bangkok 10110. Tel.: 258-3491.

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Possibly the largest in Southeast Asia, this treasure trove has an interesting history. It is well laid out, offers pamphlets in English and offers excellent guided tours. Open 9 am to 12 and 1 to 4 pm, except Mon. and Fri. Admission fee is Bht. 20; free on weekends. There are free guided tours in foreign languages starting at 9.30 am (Tel.: 258-7215). The museum is next to Thammasat University at the far end of Sanam Luang from the Grand Palace.

NATIONAL THEATRE

Just around the corner from the National Museum is this huge building where drama and Thai classical dance performances are presented. There is a dance exhibition on the last Friday of every month at 5 pm. Admission fee for other shows is around Bht 30. Call 224-1342 for further details.

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

Located across the road, almost opposite the National Theatre, is this unpretentious gallery where works of contemporary Thai artists are exhibited from 9 am to 12 noon and 1 to 5 pm daily, except Mondays and Fridays. Admission is free. Tel.: 221-7811. At the rear of the building are the National Film Archives. Run by a small group of dedicated people, the outfit is concerned with the documentation and preservation of Thai films. There are free film shows every Friday evening at 6.30 pm.

THAILAND CULTURAL CENTER

Avenue for musical and visual entertainment, this spacious complex was established with Japanese assistance. Its monthly programme often lists artists from abroad. It is located on Ratckadapisek Road, behind an open automobile showroom directly opposite the Siam Jusco shopping mall. For programme details call 247-0028, 247-0060-9

NATIONAL LIBRARY

This public library has a good collection of books in English and some other European languages on wide ranging topics. Located at the intersection of Sri Ayutthaya and Samsen Roads, the library is open from 8.30 am to 6 pm; Mon. through Sat. The National Archives office is located in the some premises. Tel: 281-5212

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Exploring Bangkok

CITY PILLAR SHRINE

The City Pillar Shrine is located just east of the Grand Palace compound. Recently renovated, the shrine contains the foundation stone of the city (Lak Muang) from which distances are measured.The stone is phallic in shape and is believed to be inhabited by a spirit that looks after the city of Bangkok.

VIMARNMEK MANSION

Situated behind the old national Assembly building, Vimarnmek Mansion is billed as the world's largest golden teak building. As much a work of art as the treasures it holds, Vimarnmek (Cloud Mansion) was built by King Chulalongkorn as a rural residence for his family. The airy I00-room mansion is full of crystal, Faberge jewelry and other objects, brought from Europe. Your ticket to the Grand Palace also entitles you to visit this mansion. Open daily from 9.30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

ERAWAN SHRINE

Thailand's devotion to Hindu deities is best represented by the famous shrine at the Ratchadamri traffic junction, where the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel stands. To boost their fortunes or success in their ventures, be it studies or business, Thais make offerings at the statue of the Hindu god Brahma. Originally erected by Grand Hyatt Erawan to counter a series of accidents during the construction, the shrine is now redolent with incense smoke and jasmine. To repay the deity for fulfilled wishes devotees place wooden elephants around the shrine or hire a resident troupe to dance.

SNAKE FARM

This place is a popular attraction for the tourists as well as locals. Situated in the Pasteur Institute compound, at the corner of Henri Dunant and Rama IV Roads, the Snake Farm has a large collection of poisonous snakes. Under huge, shady rain trees are three large and deep pits contain hundreds of poisonous snakes. The principal species kept at this farm are king cobras (some of them four metres long), ordinary cobras, banded kraits and Russell vipers.

DUSIT ZOO

This is one of the most popular places in Bangkok for family outings, especially on weekends. Located on Rama V Road, the zoo is spread over 47 acres. The main entrance to the zoo is on Rajvithi Road. The zoo is also known as Khao Din Zoo. The place is so-called because its central topographical feature is a manmade hill which gives a view of the entire park. Formerly a part of the Royal Dusit Garden Palace, the Dusit Zoo was set up by King Rama V as his private botanical garden. The zoo houses a fine collection of birds and animals, including the white elephant. It is open 8 a.m.-6 p.m.

SUAN PAKKARD PALACE

One famous private garden that is open to the public is at Suan Pokkard Palace on Sri Ayutkaya Road. Not far from the Victory Monument, it is the residence of Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, one of Thailand's leading gardeners and art collectors. The complex consists of five traditional Thai houses that contain a large collection of Buddha images, Khmer statues, old paintings, porcelains, musical instruments and the regalia of the late Prince Chumbhot.

LUMPINI PARK

It stands like an oasis amid a concrete jungle. Named after Lord Buddha's birthplace, this park is an ideal place to take a break from the hectic pace of life and give your lungs a fresh breath of air. In an artificial lake at the park, ducks and paddle boat fans can be seen moving around unmindful of the travails of Bangkokians on the roads. The main entrance to the park is opposite the Dusit Thani Hotel on Rama IV Road where the statue of King Rama IV stands.

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The Wats in Bangkok

Thailand has some of the world's most beautiful temples which still retain their centuries-old character and content.

WAT PHRA KAEO

Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Located on the grounds of the Grand Palace, the Royal Chapel of the Emerald Buddha is one of Buddhism's most magnificent monasteries and probably the most famous place in Thailand.

This is the personal chapel of His Majesty the King of Thailand, and the statue of the Emerald Buddha is considered the most sacred image in the kingdom. However, the lovely image is not emerald but is fashioned from a single piece of jasper and is 61 cm. high. The history of the Emerald Buddha is unusual. It was discovered in Chiang Mai in 1436 when a crack appeared in the large plaster over the Buddha image.

The complex is open from 8.30 a.m. to noon and from 1.00 p.m. to 3.30 p.m. An admission fee of Bht. 100 is charged which allows the visitor to visit the Vimanmek Mansion near Dusit Zoo.

WAT PO

Temple of the Reclining Buddha

The most extensive monastery in Bangkok, Wat Po was built on the site of an older monastery known as Wat Pothraram. Although best known for its enormous Reclining Buddha, it contains many other features which should not be missed.

Scattered over the huge grounds there are a large bot, four great chedis, the viharn of the Reclining Buddha, and other smaller viharns and chedis.

It is suggested that the tourists visit the centres of interest at Wat Po in the following order: First the bot and the surrounding areas; then the four great chedis followed by the Reclining Buddha.

In the courtyard are four large chedis standing opposite the lingam. These chedis represent the first four Kings of the Chakri Dynasty.

The viharn of the great Reclining Buddha is in the western courtyard. This image, representing the Buddha as he was attaining Nirvana, is 46 metres long and 15 metres high. The image is made of cement-covered brick and coated with gold leaf. The soles of the feet are inlaid with mother-of-pearl with 108 signs, marks and qualities by which a true Buddha is recognised.

WAT TRIMITR

Temple of the Golden Buddha

The wat is located at the intersection of Yaowaraj Road and Charoen Krung Road, close to Hualumpong Railway Station. The golden image inside this temple is 3 metres high and weighs five and a half tones. Sculpted in the graceful Sukhothai style, the serene image gleams beautifully, it is believed this large idol originated in Ayuthaya. This image was discovered accidentally when its original stucco sheath cracked open. It is believed that many years ago a huge Buddha image was transferred to the compound of Wat Trimitr from an abandoned monastery in downtown Bangkok. In the year 1953, the image crashed to the ground when the hook of the crane holding it broke under the strain. That night, a thunderstorm raged over Bangkok. Torrents of rain fell on the cracked plaster of the giant Buddha image.

After the rains stopped, the abbot of Wat Trimitr began to clean the image. While doing so he saw glittering metal through one of the large cracks. He called other monks, the plaster was removed and underneath was found a Buddha image of solid gold.

The origin of this image is still a mystery but itwas probably cost during the Sukhothai Period (1238-1378).

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